West Cornwall: Godrevy and the Drive From Portreath.

time times | os map | parking

dogs: not allowed on beach between 1st jul - 31st aug 10am - 6pm

Revelling in the slow, nourishing few days I’d just had in St Agnes and surrounding area it was time for me to start heading towards south Cornwall. The plan was to scale the coast, right down to Lands End and Lizard Point before heading over the Roseland Peninsula stopping at a few places along the way. 

Having had a good gawp at Google Maps and clicking on a few points of interest I had been intrigued by Godrevy. Having enjoyed a misty morning swim In Porthtowan, Monty and I had breakfast and I fired up a lovely playlist and we got on the road. 

The drive from Porthtowan to Godrevy was outstanding - having driven through some RAF bases I soon found myself entering Portreath. I had wondered about stopping here but given as I had set off fairly late it was a choice of stopping here and having a packed day or passing through and having time to relax at Godrevy but it looked worthy of a stop off. After turning the sharp corner uphill out of Portreath the roads became quiet and snaking providing a bit of beauty round each corner. 

Over the landscape I could see tops of vehicles parked up on the rugged headland and curiosity getting the better of me I followed my nose into what I discovered was one of many North Cliffs National Trust car parks and I’m very glad I did - the viewpoint was high and wild and as I sat enjoying a cuppa I had a few exchanges with a few people making their way along the South West coast path with backpacks laden with compact tents and cooking stoves. Fair play to them I thought as I say there eyeing Monty snoozing on the cosy bed in the van.

Arriving at Godrevy I wasn’t sure what to expect, I pulled into what I thought was the main car park but it was busy. People stared as I tried to manoeuvre the van round the sandy track while also making sure I was mowing down what seemed to be a steady stream of surfers making their way to the waves. It wasn’t until I had finally slotted myself into a small space that I realised I was actually at the car park for Gwithian Beach and there was another car park further on, so I headed down the track to the main Godrevy car park. 

It was empty when I arrived mid morning and I had my choice of parking spots, in delight I reversed into one meaning I could throw open the back doors and catch up on some emails while drinking up the view, sea air and atmosphere of this gorgeous place. 

First though, it was stretch of legs time. Lacing up my boots Monty (him somewhat reluctantly after a few days of non stop walking) and I heading out to the cliff to look on over the lighthouse. A helicopter was just leaving having deposited some beings in high vis jackets on the little mound. It was the heading straight for us where it landed in a field to haul up some supplies of water and other bits to run back to the mound with. Walkers all stopped in their tracks to watch this noisy mechanical insect go about it’s business. 

We picked around the cliffs for a while and I was just looking out to sea watching the wild water when I realised there were creatures bobbing in and out of he waters around the jutting rocks - seals. Transfixed I watched them for some time only to look round and notice a small crowd had gathered realising I was watching something and wanting to watch it too. I felt envious of their binoculars. 

We headed back to the car park and I had planned on getting the laptop out when I got distracted by a path that headed to a small beach, so I descended that and really enjoyed studying the rock pools, seeing if I could just be still enough that the little plankton would go about their business unbothered by my presence. Unfortunately not so easy with an inquisitive Labrador with a love of water. 

People sat eating ice creams, children pointed with delight at the seals dipping in and out of the water and the helicopter kept busy back and firth in the sky before whizzing off in the direction of St Ives. 

It was time to relax and decided I’d read a chapter of Waterlog before tucking into my inbox and was delighted to find the first chapter was all about swimming in Cornwall, it was real moment sitting there absorbing descriptive text with the doors open and an expansive view of the Atlantic sea. Once emails had been replied to I lay back on the bed, cuddled up to Monty and did a breath work session. Transcending, I had a huge moment of gratitude for our natural world and all it gives. 

I recommend getting to Godrevy earlier in the day as it does get busy. Toilets at the side of car park and there was an ice cream van off season.