Cornwall: a Day in Padstow.

Many people have spoken about Padstow over the years. I guess it just permeated my brain and it was an automatic to go, like something you just did when you went to North Cornwall. I didn't really research, I figured I’d just go and check it out.

Having arrived on a dull, October morning I was surprised by the sheer amount of coach loads turning up and the line of what looked like little animated characters heading up and back from the monument that sits on a hill with views over the estuary.

Padstow is a busy and working harbour town on the western side of the River Camel estuary. How the town has come to be was an organic process and there is no doubt it’s a pretty town with friendly locals.

However, the idea had been to get the boat over to Rock but once in Padstow I just couldn't stomach it. A sign said in a campsite I’d stayed at window “you might be on a holiday but Covid isn't , please wear a mask” and it seemed like Padstow could have done with some of those signs - people bustled and distracted by pasty shops walked right into me. The shops were full and stressful and cars tried to snake their way through the madness of people just wandering round the streets.

I stopped in one bakery to buy some scones but looking at the back of the packet realised these weren’t small batch, locally made scones and instead mass produced and sold at a mark up so, deflated, went off to try and find a more authentic bakery I didn't quite succeed so instead headed on up the path to the monument and once there spied a small beach further along that intrigued me. I’m glad I went to this little beach, past the monument everything was a bit more peaceful and the beach provided a much needed tranquil moment.

Having taken a few breaths I formulated what my next steps were: to go and find an OS Map and then grab some fish from the Stein’s Fish Market en route back to the van where I’d head back to St Agnes to explore a bit more round there.

Heading back in I did enjoy a few shops this time round, the pet shop made a big fuss of Monty while I deliberated about buying a costly but well made lead for him. The team in Mountain Warehouse were helpful where I would find an OS Map and I treated myself to a nice new hat from Jam Industries. The highlight of my trip was a good pick around in the independent bookshop where I delighted in finding some gems - local books about walks, history and Cornish customs. I came away with a small book packed full of Cornish walks and a Foraging cookbook.

Stein’s was backed up with a queue as long as the lengthy building so I gave up on the idea of fish for tea and instead boiled a kettle in the van while Monty had his doggy ice cream and I fished a scone out from the day before - perched on the side of the van I watched the madness of people trying to park.

In summary, I don’t regret visiting Padstow as there were parts I enjoyed and perhaps I am being a bit harsh on it. Would I go again? Possibly, if just to check out the Camel Trail. But if time was short and I was deciding what to fit in to some Cornish explorations I wouldn’t place my time in Padstow over other options.

To Visit.

Padstow Bookseller.

1 Broad St.

A good sized indie bookshop selling some great books. All the recommendations were enticing. Dog friendly too.

Jam Industries.

7 North Quay.

Unisex, locally made clothing that was born from the love of the water.

Slickers Doghouse.

5 North Quay.

Carefully sourced, UK made and eco pet products. I loved their zero shock leads so much I treated Monty to one, along with a peanut butter ice cream!

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West Cornwall: Godrevy and the Drive From Portreath.

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Recipe: Spiced Squash and Coconut Soup.