Brighton Walks: Marina to Ovingdean and Rottingdean Windmill.
parking | public transport | starting point | tide timesaccessible? the whole under cliff path is but you would need to come back on yourself as the top isn’t suitable for wheelchairsOn the outskirts of Brighton many surprising places can be found. Often what might be seen as an industrial area or estate hide gems that reward those in the know with gorgeous views and a deep connection with nature. To the East of the city lies an under cliff path that snakes along the bottom of dramatic white cliffs and above textured rock formations that the sea laps over and gulls congregate on. Walkers meander along, chatting with a friend or walking a dog, cyclists whizz by sounding their bell to warn of their approach and kids pick around the rock pools in delight.
I visited on a very grey Sunday in January and was still mesmerised by it. Leaving the van with the car wash, I set off with the intention of passing time but found myself immersed in picture taking and gratitude that I’d had my camera with me.
The path itself is just over 5km long and stretches from Brighton Marina to Saltdean (where the UK’s only grade II listed Lido can be found). It passes along the seafronts of Ovingdean and the historical village of Rottingdean.
The path begins at the left side of Asda in the wet fish that is Brighton Marina but look beyond the awful concrete car parks and depressing chain restaurants and you’ll find a special place. At the beginning of the path you’re looking up at the Black Rock cliffs and as you pass Asda you’ll spot that the colour changes and stretching up is white chalk cliffs peppered with black flint. These rocks were laid by a warm ocean over 85 millions years ago and within these cliffs there are Ice Age deposits. Therefore the Black Rock area provides useful information into climate and many remains of animals such as woolly mammoth and rhinoceros have been found.
As you emerge from the eyesore marina and the first beach appears to your right you’ll start to feel like you’re in a different place altogether. Time it right with the tide and you can walk around the groynes and, if you’re anything like me, lose yourself in studying all the different flint and chalk rock pools sitting humble and quiet in their wise knowledge of centuries gone by.
If the water is clear you’ll see the remnants of the Daddy Long Legs - a pier and tram hybrid, Victorian structure that moved along tracks from the marina to Rottingdean. It was designed by Marcus Volt as an extension of his electric railway that still operates today. The Daddy long Legs ran for a short five years from 1896 with many weather caused set backs before sea defence work forced its closure.
Dipping in and out of the beaches or just walking the solid path, carry on until some wiggly roofs come into view - this is the Ovingdean cafe and toilets and well worth a stop for an ice cream and watching the world go by. If you want to make a day of it, carry on the Undercliff to Rottingdean where you can visit the beautiful Kipling Gardens before heading back to join this route from the top.
From Ovingdean, take the steps up and once at the top climb the small hill and once at the peak you can cross the road (be very careful, this is a fast and busy road) where you’ll find Rottingdean Windmill. Take a little loop on the smooth grass and then had back over the road to trace your way back to marina along the top path all the way to above Asda where you can drop back down. There’s a fairly wide verge all along but be careful not to walk too close to the edge.
If you aren’t quite ready for your walk to end you can take a plod along the sea wall around the marina and on a Sunday you can see a glut of sailing boats. If you want to include food in your walk I recommend eating in Rottingdean rather than eating at the marina or you can take a small detour by the gorgeous Sussex Square to Cafe Marmalade.