Travel - Five Wyches Campsite (Dartmoor)

Pulling into Five Wyches I felt a sense of nurture - as the driveway snakes past a barn and into the two small fields you feel like you’re tucking yourself away. Immediately you feel quite held - the space is small and what it lacks in vistas it makes up in intimacy.

When I was researching places to stay on Dartmoor I was enamoured by the single person price - I often feel penalised for being just one when prices are by tent. It seems I wasn't the only one as two other solo ladies arrived the day after me and this lure didn’t really need to be spoken about for us to sharing a knowing look. I was also attracted to the eco credentials - a long drop compost toilet, an outdoor shower, strict recycling policies and take your waste away to encourage you not to accumulate any.

Camping solo can be hit and miss - the hope is always there for a balance between welcoming faces and the absence of a sense of ‘lone lady camping among a load of couples’. But as I arrived I felt instantly pleased with the decision to spend the next week and a bit here, not least because the owner couldn't have been more welcoming, showing an interest in what I was up to and generous with recommendations.

I felt apprehensive about booking somewhere for 10 days - a stretch solo when you don’t know what the vibe is like is a risk but I figured for the price I could move on if I needed to. I really wanted to bed down somewhere though - to give myself time to be in the swing of relaxing, picking up a book or simply sitting and staring into space. This is something I struggle with massively at home.

So I’m writing this post over multiple days in realtime and this morning - my first morning at Five Wyches - I unzipped the tent to the sun elevating over the wild meadow and while Monty went and found an adoring couple to wiggle at I embraced some yoga infront of the tent and then undid all the wholesome with a potent coffee. The I went to explore the dog walking meadow, the little path through the woodland that leads to a beautiful wild spot that is perfect for meditation (tried and tested).

On the recommendation of Sarah, the campsite owner, I headed over the road (by car because the road accessing the site is narrow and fast - don’t let that put you off) to Parke - a National Trust site with a trail that takes you along a wild flowing river that took my breath away. The vibe was slightly ruined by an essential trip to a supermarket to get some must haves but quickly rectified by a trip to the famous Haytor.

Coming back I knew I was going to need a shower and I hesitantly headed for the open air cubicle and flipped the sign to engaged. As the warm water flowed over me and I marvelled at the experience of showering beneath blackberries and acorns I got a bit bolder and slipped my swimming costume off. Showering naked in open air was an experience I relished every moment of! And - something a lot of campsites fall short - there was lots of space for a larger body to dance around enjoying the hot water in the cool air.

The long drop toilets are respected by the people who are attracted to this campsite. Shavings are supplied to keep things pleasant and it all just works really well. There are no washing up stations here but there is a water tap and camping is about improvisation! Fire pits made from recycled washing machine drums were delightful and wood is sold on an honesty box system from the old caravan that sits at the entrance of the field.

Five Wyches is incredible for easy reach of so many places - the cute little town of Bovey Tracey is on your doorstep with everything you need from a bakers to a launderette. Haytor and surrounding tors are a short drive away - perfect for early morning trips to catch a sunrise and it’s easy to pick up the Devon Expressway to gorges and river spots. The only slight downside is the campsite lies off a road that is one of the main gateways to the moors and at night motorbikes hare up the roads and the sound echoes through. Of course - this is a slight niggle as given the location it’s a small price to pay.

I moved halfway through my stay from the middle of the first field to next to the caravan where wood is sold. Moving under the trees definitely made a difference on the temperature and it made things a lot easier to be next to the water tap. There are no plug points on the campsite for charging and hairdryers so I was glad I booked an electric hook up pitch.

So here I am on a new campsite a few days after leaving Five Wyches and I do really miss it. The intimacy is something that is lost with the vista here (you can’t have it all!) and you get a realisation of just how well the long drop toilets are kept there when you experience the same system elsewhere (grimace). The stars, the sunrises, the sunsets, the bats, the little secret bits of field all bring together a magical place to stay - I would definitely recommend Five Wyches, especially as a solo traveler.

Book a trip here.