Suffolk: 6 Things to do in Aldeburgh
Sometimes the best places are those that didn’t leave an impression the first time. the places that need scratching beneath the surface to uncover the magic.
As you may know, I’ve been spending a fair bit of time in Suffolk the past year while working with The Dunns and my second introduction to Aldeburgh was on another drizzly day where I felt all I discovered were the no dog signs for the beach and a cinnamon bun (a very nice one it must be said) from the Two Magpies. But on the third and forth visit, the third with my Suffolk guide Jodie (from The Dunns) I felt I saw a different side of Aldeburgh. On this fifth trip back the sun shone and the hollyhocks stood tall outside the coloured cottages, the there was the epic sunset over the river and marshes and Aldeburgh embedded itself in my heart.
As with many coastal towns, Aldeburgh presets itself in different ways depending on what the weather is doing. Some things appear in the sunshine like a hologram that caught the light in the right way - things you’d missed and walked by in the greyer weather. All year round of course is the lovely selection of shops that sell clothing and homewares and pretty jewellery to cherish as a reminder of your trip to Suffolk.
While the main town beaches aren’t dog friendly in summer, the beaches to the east and west - all quickly walkable from the town centre - are dog friendly so you and your pal can be free as the breeze. So having a dog is no reason to write Aldeburgh off! The shops and prom are dog friendly.
The reason for this post is to share my favourite moments in Aldeburgh - the things I’ve done in the town that quickly chipped away at my preference to Southwold. In fact, while Aldeburgh doesn't have the sandy beaches of Southwold, it does have a quieter charm that soothes the soul. So let’s get into it:
Walk to Thorpeness.
From the East side of Aldeburgh you can walk along the path at the top of the beach (dog friendly) to weird and wonderful Thorpeness. On the way there you’ll spot the scallop - a monument designed by local artist Maggi Hambling dedicated to the late Benjamin Britten - a much loved composer and resident of the area (The Red House) - which bears the quote ‘I hear those voices that will not be drowned’ which is from one of Brittens operas.
Thorpeness itself has a remarkable story - it’s essentially a toy town originally dreamt up by Stuart Ogilvie who designed it as a private fantasy holiday village with mock Tudor houses and the lake (or ‘meare’ as it is called) houses lots of islands named by J M Barrie as the whole place was modelled on Peter Pan. To me it’s like something out of a weird American suburbia thriller but thousands holiday here each year with the majority of the properties being let out as holiday lets, including the ‘house in the clouds’ - a former water tower that has a boarded house on top. It’s well worth a wander round and if it’s open, stop in at Mabel & Co - a letterpress with gorgeous goods for sale.
Get fish’n’chips from the famous shop.
It’s rare I eat fish’n’chips so when I do they have to be good ones. I had turned my nose up at Aldeburgh fish’n’chips in favour of Sole Bay in Southwold but I was a fool to! In my latest visit to Aldeburgh I got to the town later than planned and didn't fancy making my own dinner in the van so grabbed a portion of cod and chips and shared it with Monty at the scallop. The same people own Aldeburgh Fisn’n’Chips and The Golden Galleon. Damn, those fish’n’chips were good.
Add to the Angel of the East.
After sculptures by Antony Gormley were removed because they were laid flat rather than stood up as intended, Caroline Wiseman retaliated with a new plan. Vistitors to the look out were invited to add red stones to the line that connects the building to where the Gormley pieces were located leading to a large circle on the beach. When I was there with my Mum and sister we added writing onto the stones with a nugget of life inspiration. Find it on the central beach.
Walk to the Martello tower.
The the west of Aldeburgh you can take a peaceful walk along the top of the beach (dog friendly), past the sailing club and to the Martello tower. From there you can see Orford Ness and get views across the river. It’s a really different perspective of Aldeburgh and one that feels special.
Note: swimming is not permitted this side of Aldeburgh due to unsafe structures hidden in the water.
Walk along the river bank and marshes.
The tidal river Alde, which the town is named after, snakes along flatlands and is also known as the river Ore, depending on whether you’re in Aldeburgh or Orford. It’s a dense nature reserve with many species of birds spotted on the banks and with their long beaks in the mud. Its also home to some stunning views and sites of interest including the church at the charming Iken that sits on a peninsula.
From Aldeburgh you can do a small loop along from just before the sailing club and back into town or you can walk to Snape Maltings and back - set aside a good chunk of the day for it though - it’s about two hours each way but there is much to do at Snape Maltings - shopping, checking out artists and some good grub.
Visit the cinema.
Built in 1919 the cinema is over 100 years old and a much loved asset in the town. It shows a curated selection of modern films, some old indie gems and National Theatre showings. they offer Suffolk sourced goodies like popcorn, Adnam’s cider and beer and tubs of ice cream. I haven’t been because of the dog but I am assured it’s one not to miss.
