The Purbecks: Worth Matravers and Winspit Caves
Do you have a place that calls you? That you think about often and crave? For me Winspit is that place.
My love affair with Winspit started in my early twenties when some friends arranged a party there. Walking down the path with beers in one hand a torch in my other I was to arrive at this special place on the Jurassic Coast. As the sun came up and we sat on the ledge after hours of dancing in the moonlight I learned my love loved me too, right before he accompanied me to hospital to get my suspected broken hand cast up (thought I had better break the sickening romance there!). While we didn't work out for the long haul I still cherish the memories made at that spot and it’s held a special place in my heart since.
So, fast forward to my thirties when I learned of some friends having an annual jolly at The Square & Compass pub at Worth Matravers. Pitching my tent at the nearby Woodyhyde campsite I relished the idea of a walk down to the caves again. Sitting on that ledge I reminisced and observed Woodyhyde through different eyes. It felt like so much had changed but yet nothing at all.
I’ve been back to Worth Matravers every autumn since, bar one. There is something about the textures and the energy of the place that calls me back. The same call that led me to write this post on a cold early March evening of lockdown 2021 when there is hope of the world starting back up again.
Winspit is especially good at sunrise or sunset - my favourite is to do the walk late afternoon and then catch the last of the light outside the imitable Square & Compass pub with one of their humble pasties and a pint of home pressed cider (I’m on the apple juice).
Walk info
Duration: you’ll need around 1.5-2 hours.
Terrain: some soft, muddy ground, a few moderate climbs up and down but mainly sturdy ground. If you use poles, take them on this walk.
Parking: Park at Worth Matravers in the main village car park. The car park is managed by donation so be sure to take some coins. There are public toilets at the car park where water supplies can be filled up for vans.
Public transport: You can get the number 40 Purbecks breezer from Poole or Swanage. Be sure to plan ahead as this isn’t a short journey nor do the buses run regularly.
Starting Point
We’re starting out the front of the Square and Compass pub, looking down towards the sea. We’re going to head across the fields South East at around 10 o’clock (that’s clock face direction, not time of day!).
The Route
There are many versions of this circular route down to the coast and along to the caves. So as long as you have a map (phone or paper) you’ll find your way to the caves.
Head across the fields south east towards the sea from the Square & Compass. There are clear paths and gates in the beautiful stone walls. As you descend down to the cliff edge you’re aiming to head right (West) towards Winspit. You’ll follow the path for a while until the caves start to come into view. Once they do the math will start to narrow and you’ll pick along until you’re at the caves.
Gift yourself some time to just take in the sheer epicness of the caves - and take a seat to look out to sea for a while. For the keen dippers people do swim here on calm days at the entry point to the east of the caves but go with extreme caution, the currents get VERY strong here even on mild days.
To head back on up to Worth Matravers, exit the caves Eastbound but start to head north up the wide path instead of going back on yourself up to the cliff.
Follow the path up and when it forks take the right fork. After about 25 mins the path will lead to a gate where you’ll pass into an open field and you cross along to the Dorset stone houses in the village. You will come out with a terraced row of houses to your left and then you’ll emerge in the centre of the village by the pond. Take a right and you’ll find yourself at the pub with an appetite and a thirst. Take a blanket to throw over you shoulders as you watch the last of the light go over this epic coastline.
Bliss.
