Southwold and Walberswick.
Perhaps the walks I had just done at Blythburgh Estuary and Benacre contributed to the feeling I got when I got to Southwold. Or perhaps it was the beautiful music by Poemme filing the van as I guided it round the windy roads. But I fell in love with Southwold the moment I arrived at around 4pm on a cold, wet Friday in April.
The town was pretty much deserted when I got there, bar a few fish’n’chip shops everything was closed (the final few days in April 2021 before the post lockdown opening happened) and so Monty and I had the freedom to explore (he is the worst on a lead but an angel off!) without bothering anyone. I had one thing on my mind though - fish’n’chips.
It’s been a long time since I’ve had a portion of fish’n’chips. Regular readers of this blog will know I’ve a long history with disordered eating in the past due to body image but in the past few years found a liberation of sorts and it felt like this was the last on my list of banned foods to get more comfortable with eating. So this was quite a notable occasion and having had the most disappointing experience with fish’n’chips a few years back I was really hoping for a better box of this very English meal.
It just so happened that I stumbled on the perfect scenario - reviews took me to a place on the harbour but when I got there it was cash only but I happened to spot a place next door that took cards. It was a pretty place to wait outside with the canopies and black facade. Monty clocked what was going on and did his best well behaved sit in hope it might earn him a share of this fish supper on the harbour. Lucky for him I was in the sharing mood and we both thoroughly enjoyed one of the best fish’n’chips I’ve ever had from the Sole Fish Company.
In the morning Monty and I rose early and walked along to the beach where I loved the blue beach huts offset against the golden sand. And the black wooden buildings that are so popular in this area. The waves crashed as we headed into town and the streets were deserted as we wandered and took photos.
I’d heard great things about the Two Magpies bakery so stopped off to get some treats - I’m so glad I did as the cinnamon bun was epic and the bread made for a lovely supper later - pillowy soft inside with a crispy crust that was teamed with local butter. Bliss. Also, on the spur of the moment I added a salmon and cream cheese sourdough bagel to my order and it turned out to be a solid choice - tender salmon with dill and capers. It was a good food day.
In normal times I can see that Southwold is a wonderful place to pick around the shops and most had ‘dogs welcome’ signs which is always pleasing for a dog owner. Add to that the array of independent businesses and the Adnam’s Brewery for cider lovers. This is the epitome of a traditional English seaside town, I could see myself moving to Southwold for retirement but it seems everyone else feels the same with house prices in the town though the roof. I can’t speak for what it’s like in season but out of season it’s a gorgeous place to be.
It’s a must to visit neighbouring Walberswick while here too - while I drove round you can cross from the harbour on foot from Southwold to Walberswick. It’s a super pretty village with thatched houses, very different to Southwold even though right next to each other. There are a few options for a good cuppa and a take out lunch plus a wonderful looking deli. While I wasn’t a fan of hauling crabs out of their habitat only to poke at them and drop them from a height back in it was a joy to walk round the wispy dunes. Around the area there are an abundance of walks so get your energy up and get exploring in this soul reviving spot.
Next up, Monty and I head off to Dunwich Forest and lost town.