North Cornwall: Perranporth Beach.

Stay: The Owl Box

Tide times: Perranporth 

Parking: meter council parking

It had taken me six hours to get to Cornwall and I had been dreading the drive, still dealing with nerve damage in my back it meant that sitting for prolonged periods was tricky but with the help of Michelle Obama (Becoming) on audiobook and some beautiful stops offs to stretch our legs it was doable.

I have only been to Cornwall a few times - a couple as a kid and I think somewhere near Penzance and then to Newquay for a big rave that led to a bit of a mental breakdown about ten years ago. So yeah, I was ready to meet Cornwall in a different light!

Having seen people on their travels in the South West I was excited about finding the wild areas of Cornwall as well as checking out some towns. Having left a day late because of alterations to the van my schedule was set back a bit - I had originally planned to come down and stay north and then check into the AirBNB I had booked on day 2 or 3 but instead I headed straight there. Not before I had let Monty free on a beach after all that time in the van and I had spotted that Perranporth was nearby.

Pulling up there was the usual fare you would see in a popular seaside town - gift shops and a co-op plus a pet store that seemed irked I had bought my dog in. Not quite the welcome I was looking for so we hit the beach. Perranporth is a vast expanse of sand with rocks jutting out. It wouldn't be until after I’d left the area that I’d learn that there is a hidden tidal pool here and also meeting some surfers down by Lands End I learned we were there the same day and they had been surfing with seals.

As Monty scaled the beach with delight, digging in any body of water he could find, I stood with two feet on the ground and took in a deep breath - what did Cornwall have in store for me? This was the beginning of a weeks long roadtrip and this was my starting point.

Surfers crashed in and out of the waves and dogs darted across the beach in pursuit of balls. As I moved towards the sea I spotted some epic cliffs to my left and fiddled with the camera while I struggled to capture it - the darkness of the cliffs offset by the pleasingly blue water with a subtle mist giving the whole thing some magic. Something to be remembered in my mind instead.

I have no idea what the ideal thing is for surfers but as a foot visitor to this beach I was really happy I’d caught it at low tide, the rock pools around the rocks and caves were beautiful and I stared at the water running through one arch until I was lost in a bit of a haze. I chatted to what seemed to be one of numerous golden retriever owners who took great delight in telling me how much her dog loved this beach. I could see why, Monty was in his element pouncing and digging in the fine, golden sand.

Having had our fill of Perranporth (and my parking alarm rudely interrupting my daze like state) it was time to head to the AirBNB - the rest of the trip would be by van but as I had some credit for AirBNB I thought I’d utilise it here. Pulling into a tight gateway on a narrow lane I was warmly welcomed by my host who showed me past the chickens and guinea pigs to the Owl Box in the rambling garden. Nestled among string beans, an outdoor bath and a trickling steam, the owl box is a cosy little hideout with a huge open fire in the middle which would serve both as heating and for boiling rice/warming the veggie chilli I had made back in Brighton.

I didn't take many images of the Owl Box because I felt it should be booked to be appreciated but I highly recommend it - the walks from it are astoundingly beautiful and it was a joyous place to be.

In the evening I explored Chapel Porth beach, which will be my next post so look out for it because I highly recommend a change of pace on this beautiful National Trust beach.