Menorca: a day in Ciutadella (on a small budget).

pronounced: sweet-a-daya | population ~30k | tourist information maps what3words

Peering out of the plane window, the first thing that hit me about Menorca was the light - everything was so clear and the light bright yet soft. In Menorca for a commission, my hotel was booked by my client in Ferreries, a small shoe making town central in the island. As ever with a work trip, I usually try and have a day either side of the commission to get some exploring time in outside of commissioned time - usually while shooting I’m seeing new places under the guide of a local so it’s ideal. However, with this particular commission I knew it was going to be focused on the water and beaches so cross legged on the hotel bed, I explored the options.

I hadn’t envisaged a city trip while on the island but it turned out Menorca houses two cities, both very worthy of your time. Ciutadella is the former capital of Menorca - it was under the rule of the British that Mahon was declared the new capital of Menorca during the 18th century. Ciutadella sits on the furthest western point of the island and is filled with a maze of cobbled streets, coffee houses, pretty squares and is also home to a beautiful port where life seems to slow down a little.

I arrived in the city via bus and was dropped off just by the main ‘high street’. It didn't take me long to turn into one of the narrow streets that are filled with coloured façades and pretty doorways. Prepare to rack up a serious amount of steps exploring Ciutadella.

Here are my suggestions for a day in this gorgeous city.

Good to knows

It is worth getting to Ciutadella fairly early so you can pack everything in before siesta time. Menorcans take their siestas seriously. You won’t find many places open past 1.30pm so factor this into your exploring and lunching!

The Menorca pastry is an ensaimada - they are delicious but I found out too late that they usually contain pork lard. If it’s a consideration for you too, make sure you check before ordering.

You’ll be racking up some steps, wear good footwear. I sweat by my Teva Hurricanes - so supportive and grippy along the streets.

There are a few bus drop offs in the city, choose the second from last or last stop to access the old town.

There is a lack of public toilets - one of the toilets on Google maps by the port simply doesn’t exist and the ones in the old town by the food market were shut. But there are public toilets in the cathedral and monastery.

Ciutadella is a foodies dream, especially if you like to eat fish. I was on too much of a budget to dine at a restaurant (Alvalle and a baguette while sitting in the sun at the Port instead!) but if I was eating out I would have gone to Es Tast de na Sílvia - this restaurant is the only place in Menorca to hold the slow food certificate that recognises all ingredients are local.

Turn left and right, then right and left.

From the words of my client in Menorca, this is simply the best way to explore Ciutadella. Is to not have much of a plan and wander the streets. You’ll get to know it very quickly and start to recognise points, coming out on the same square and taking another route just for the fun of it. In the streets there are many little boutiques to explore as well as coffee houses and cafes. When it’s time for lunch there are many options for gorgeous tapas houses with tables out on the street.

Coffee stops:

Herbera

Wandering around needing breakfast and a coffee I was happy to find Herbera bakery. I really enjoyed a pastry and coffee here while planning my day. NB: Ensaimada’s contain pork lard so not veggie friendly, I found out once it was too late!

Carrer de Maó, 28, 07760 Ciutadella de Menorca

Opening: 8.30am-1.30pm & 5pm-8pm

what3words | maps | instagram

Catedral Coffee

After wandering the streets and checking out the cathedral and related buildings it was time for another hit of caffeine. Catedral came through, and with some tender pasty bites no less. It also became a bit of an exploring landmark, helping me get my whereabouts!

Plaça de la Catedral, 3, 07760 Ciutadella de Menorca

Opening: 8am-4pm Mon-Sat

what3words | maps | instagram

I also found there were some beautiful streets to the left of the steps looking up from the port - a real locals area and catch it after lunch and you might catch the joy of residents letting themselves into each others houses to share cake and desserts.

The cathedral & Convent

Whether of faith or not, the cathedral is well worth a visit. Built over a muslim mosque in the fourteenth century, it is an iconic building of Catalan gothic architecture. The memory of the original mosque still exists in the lower belfry. The building is of a single chamber structure with various lateral chapels, of which the Chapel of Las Animas (The Souls) is an important piece of Menorqan baroque from the 18th century. The cathedral has had turbulent times, starting from the assault of the Turkish in 1558 and up to 1936 when rioters entered the cathedral causing bad damage and burned statues, paintings and artefacts.

A ticket to the cathedral is 6.60 euros (price correct at time of publication) and also gives you admission to the convent and cloister, a stones throw from the cathedral. First, don’t miss the garden next to the cathedral and meet Whitey, the little cat that lives in the garden who the residents look after. I learned he is very famous as he has appeared on social media more than the cathedral!

Once you’ve fussed over Whitey and made your way to the convent take some time to appreciate this incredible place. Built in the 17th century this building is well worth a see. The white central courtyard is quite breathtaking and the baroque cloister is a magnificent sight. While I was there choir music was playing in the courtyard and it made for a very memorable visit.

[Good to know] As both buildings are places of deep faith, dress appropriately and keep voices and pictures discreet.

[Admission] 6.60 euros (price correct at time of publication), payable to the friendly folk on the door of the cathedral. Cards accepted. All printed information available in various languages.

Visit the Markets

Just behind the convent you can find the Plaça del Mercat. On a Saturday you can buy local produce and crafts and from Tuesday to Saturday this is where the fish market is held. Opening times are 7am-2pm. It is advised to get there early.

Around the rest of Ciutadella you can find street markets at Plaça des Born and Portal de la Mar on certain days and haggling is commonplace. You can find information of the market opening times in the tourist advise centre in Plaça des Born. The 22 metre high obelisk in the centre of Plaça des Born is commemorative of the Turkish attack in 1558.

[Good to know] never haggle if you have no intention of buying an item but don’t be afraid to walk away if the price isn’t right.

The Port

The port of Ciutadella is a hub of foodie places and meeting places for drinks. People come and go to boats or meeting friends and on the walk down to the port there are various gift shops. I also really liked the streets to the left of the top of the stairs in the mouth of the port - wandering around these quiet streets I took so much pleasure looking at the different doorways and trailing plants.

The Port is where I sat and had lunch, some Alvalle bought from a small grocery shop near the Plaça del Mercat with a baguette. I could have sat there all day in the sunshine washing the world go by.

Total Spend

Bus to and from Ciutadella: 3.75 euros

Pastry and coffee: 5 euros

Coffee: 2.50 euros

Lunch: 3.50 euros

Cathedral entry: 6.60 euros

= 21.35 euros