London: How to Spend a Day in SE1 (London Bridge, South Bank and Southwark).

Adventures

13 Nov

The year was 2018 and it was the eve of my birthday. I’d just come out of London Bridge station and the sun was starting to rise behind a built up street of office blocks. I made my way to Borough Market and it was a bustle of activity of stallholders setting up, chefs stirring steaming paella and folk catching a morning coffee and a few moments of sun on their face before they caught a lift to the office floor that would be their station for the day.

I was on a commission to document life in a large chunk of the SE1 postcode, from dusk ‘til dawn. I would end up with my best ever step count by the time I get on the train, but also I’d be leaving with a new love of this part of London.

Rich in culture, the arts and some of Londons most important historical landmarks, SE1 enriches the senses and is an excellent way to spend a day in London. Starting at one of the worlds most famous food markets through to theatre in Southwark, passing through the Tate Modern and the busting Southbank I went on an epic walk to capture everything this area of London offers.

In the years since then I’ve thought about this day often, how often we get so caught up on landmarks we forget to just observe how life ebbs and flows through areas, the time of day bringing a different crowd and a different mood.

This guide is is my recommendations of how to spend a day in this wonderfully rich and abundant part of London. Lace up your trainers, pick a dry day and let’s explore:

Morning (Dusk).

Without a doubt head straight to Borough Market and drink in the morning magic while folks set up for a busy day of prepping, selling, displaying and serving. It’s my favourite time of day for seeing Borough Market because you see what goes into their offerings (hard work). The fishmonger frantically stocks the ice, the florist tinkers with the display and the spice seller carefully arranges pots.

There’s also coffee to be drunk, Monmouth Coffee is one of London’s excellent roasters and there’s a reason why you’ll join a long queue of folks looking for a caffeine fix en route to the office. If you don’t fancy the queue, pop over to the nearby but slightly more tucked away Gentlemen’s Baristas.

Then head along a few streets and grab some pastries for the go at Bread Ahead, enjoying the activity around with chefs prepping around the streets.

Morning Wanders.

Before heading into everything Southwark and Southbank have to offer now is your opportunity to take a walk along the river and check out the famous Tower Bridge. I used to commute to Old Street, walking from London Bridge and I used to love seeing Tower Bridge in the varying light. You can pick up the river from the station side of London Bridge and wander along the river from there on The Queen’s Walk, passing people rushing to work. Along the way you’ll pass the HMS Belfast and shopping and food centre Hays Galleria. There’s also Potters Field Park which is a green space where you can relax and view Tower Bridge. If you want to dig a little deeper on Tower Bridge head to the Engine Rooms.

Mid Morning Meanders.

Head on back to Borough Market which should be in full swing by now - hoards of tourists browsing the stalls and looking for tasters. Now is a good time to grab some mid morning fuel and browse the stalls before the uncomfortably busy lunchtime rush.

After a good look round head towards the river where you’ll pass The Golden Hinde (a replica of Francis Drakes ship) and if the Clink Prison whets your appetite now is the time to visit.

Take a walk up Bankside where you’ll pass various points of interest including Shakespeares Globe Theatre and you’ll find yourself at the Millennium Bridge. Here you’ll find the must visit Tate Modern which is so worth a look. You can access the building for free but will need to pay for select exhibitions. The shops are great with a carefully curated collection of books and offerings from artisan makers. Don’t miss the viewing level and bar - some of the most amazing views across the river to the city can be found here.

Afternoon South Bank Exploration.

If you’ve never been to St Paul’s Cathedral and that’s your jam it might be worth crossing the bridge to check it out otherwise continue along the river to reach The Southbank. Allow a good few hours to check out Southbank, there is a lot to see. The Hayward Gallery is a favourite of mine, they have excellent exhibitions. Again, they have a great shop too.

If you head up the yellow South Bank steps you’ll find a rooftop cafe with a lovely secret garden. I always try and visit when I’m in this part of London. There’s so much to see around South Bank, wander and take it all in! If you need a lunchtime cocktail to fuel your visit there’s plenty of options. The London Eye is here too and you have to go on it once!

Late Afternoon Culture.

It’s time to go to deepest darkest Southwark. I love this area - it’s one full of culture and creativity. There is so much on offer and a lot to find around every corner. If you walk along The Cut you’ll be transported into an energetic and sociable world outside the Old Vic and beyond, just soak in the atmosphere. I would highly recommend seeing what shows are on in Southwark theatres - The Old Vic is 200 year old non profit theatre and the Young Vic began as an offshoot located on an old bomb site. There’s also the Union Theatre.

There is an abundance of places to eat around Southwark and I would say here is where you want to spend the most on food. There’s the famous gastropub Anchor & Hope if you fancy that kind of thing or you can head to the Union Street area where you’ll be spoiled for choice. If you’re feeling flush there’s Gordon Ramsey’s restaurant or just wander around and see what you fancy. I really like Caravan as you know what you’re getting and the vibe is good. There is also Flat Iron Square where you can catch some live music and street food from any of the pop ups.

You’ll also find the Jerwood Space on Union St which is an old school with temporary exhibitions.

Evening Vibes.

By now you’ll be heading well into dusk. Take a walk back towards Borough Market where you’ll find the financial district workers have all clocked out and gathered in Borough Market. It’s quite a thing to walk through! I really loved to see how this space had changed over the course of a day. If you have any steps left in you, I highly recommend finishing off your day at The Bermondsey Arts Club and Cocktail Bar which is a super cool speakeasy with an impressive cocktail menu. Good vibes, good times. Or if you really want to do the tourist thing, there’s Gong on the 52nd floor of The Shard and will provide you with views as far as the South Downs on a clear evening.