Cornwall: Helford, Durgan & St Mawes. Including the St Mawes Ferry.

ferry timetable | dogs at st mawes | dogs at durgan

Sitting outside the van eating breakfast at Henry’s I reflected on how at home I had felt at Henry’s at The Lizard and how I would have loved to have factored in another night there. But I felt agitated and irritated with Monty, a week in the van with a large Labrador was starting to grate (I know right, woe is me) but mainly down to organisation of the van and a lack of a decent sink. I had also forgotten to reconnect the waste water pipe when I emptied the grey water and therefore all the waste water was now sinking into the ply covering the floor. And while these pictures might depict a more idealistic, sunny scene is wasn’t quite the perfect start to the morning.

Add to that I was desperate for a shower after a few days without one and my sweat inducing walk from Kynance Cove but when I got to the showers I realised I needed some 20p pieces and I don’t keep any coins in the van. It was Sunday and there wasn't a shop open in Lizard but luckily a kind couple furnished me with a few coins so I could get my hot shower fix.

The plan for the day was to head over to St Mawes via the Helford River and the St Mawes ferry. As I left the Lizard the landscape became obviously more affluent. The drive around the Helford River is something else - this is a go slow kinda route where beautiful music fills the cab and there’s a little surprise around each sharp corner. I found myself passing through Gweek, home of Cornish sea Salt and the Cornish Seal Sanctuary, which is an incredibly gorgeous place.

Roo the van might be compact inside but I was incredibly glad of the size of the van on the windy, narrow roads around Mawnan. I was headed to Durgan, a National Trust owned fishing village that I really wish I had researched first and given more time to. There are so many astoundingly beautiful walks in the area and I must have missed the Glendurgan Garden by a stones throw.

I parked the van among what seemed anther fifty vans in the car park where well dressed folk picnicked on tartan blankets and kids ran around with towel capes. Packing a tote with a book and a ball we headed on down through the trees to Durgan where it felt like I was stepping back in time. Monty was delighted to run down the hill into the water and after watching him dig about for a while we headed back up the hill to check out the beach where a group of women swimmers had met and kids quickly got to work throwing Monty stones and giggling at his attempts to retrieve them.

Sheltered from the winds coming off the sea, the Helford River provides a gorgeous play to hang out that is peaceful and mild. Little boats make their way back and forth and the view across the river is vast. Should I return to Cornwall anytime soon I’ll definitely factor more days to the area. Likewise for the journey to St Mawes ferry, the drive there was just beautiful and the National Trust’s Trelissic Garden looks well worth a stop at.

The St Mawes ferry is a must and one of the few remaining chain ferries in the UK. Having lived in Bournemouth I wasn’t a stranger to the Poole ferry but this was an entirely different experience. I just feel like I improved my life having gone on that little ferry!

Clonking off the ferry and back onto the road I made my way to St Mawes. A little easier to access to Mousehole but quite similar in feel. In medieval times St Mawes was an important port but these days it is a picturesque harbour with a preserved castle that was once Henry VIII’s. I was glad I visited but I’m also glad I didn't leave too long on the schedule for it - a short walk around and a pasty from the deli was good enough for me, this is a place of money and I felt a bit out of place! I was also ready to get to the park up as the light was fading and I like to make sure I have scoped the place properly in the light first to make sure I am not disturbing residents or the park up regulations have changed since the last review.

The next post will be final day in Cornwall before I head to Dorset where I check out the Roseland Heritage coast and bump into a few faces I know which led me to having a surreal day at a sea shanty festival!