Brighton: My Ultimate Guide
all information correct at time of writing - most links in post will take you to a Google listing so you can check opening hours or whether places are still trading before visiting.
Sometimes the things you want to write about the most are the hardest to write. The nature of the beast is that you procrastinate in the fear you’re not doing the thing you love justice. But circumstance means, that after nearly 20 years living in this amazing city (on and off), it’s going to soon be time to leave and suddenly I feel propelled to document my last year here.
In knowing I was going to write this guide for a number of years I’ve thought about how I would approach it and how I’m going to fit in all of the awesome things that exist in Brighton. In the end I realised that was an impossible task and I’m going to have to feature highlights with scope to do more break off posts in the coming months.
I AirBNB my spare room and always get asked for recommendations so this list started as something I sent to guests and has evolved as each guest wanted something in particular. As I said, this is not an exhaustive list, it would be impossible to list ALL of the Brighton places that are loved in the city, I’ve focused on the places that are always talked about within my circles.
SO.. Brighton.
Where do I start? I’m going to try and keep this succinct. Brighton is well known for it’s inclusivity and freedom with a long history of its LGBTQ+ culture. This is a city that also attracts the off beat and possibly the only place in England where you wouldn't blink an eyelid walking past someone going about their errands in a full period outfit. Anything goes in Brighton and is well known for it’s casual vibe where people are dressed however they like. The city has a sustainable focus and is full of artisans and creatives. It has a thriving food scene with options rivalling London in quality and offering. The music scene is also strong here with many gig venues and recording studios.
Every May, Brighton hosts 2 festivals running together: the Fringe and the Brighton Festival where the city is a colourful show of creativity with pop up theatres and performances to be found around every corner. Also, artists of the city open up their homes for the Artists Houses trails both during this period and later in the year in October.
A Brief Brighton History.
Brighton began as a Saxon village and was given a charter in 1313 to allow the residents rights. It was made up of 4 streets: North Street, East Street, West Street and South Street with Middle St arriving sometime before 1500. The Lanes that connect these streets that are now home to shops, cafes and jewellery stores were pathways between allotments.
In the 1500’s Brighton was subject to a number of attacks from the French, but as is the spirit of Brighton, it came back fighting and prospered as a fishing town. It then had a rough patch when the fishing industry suffered because of wars and then got a ravaged by a storm but finally, Brighton rose in the 1800’s where it started to attract the wealthy and get it reputation as a Regency place, proof of which you can find in many of the city squares near the seafront. It was in this century that Thomas Kemp built Kemptown and a man called Brunswick created the area of the same name to the West of the town. A rail line to Brighton opened and further fuelled the fire of the town’s success.
Over the years the town prospered and the combined Brighton & Hove were given a city status in the year 2000. Another notable event is the fire of the West Pier. In the 1960’s it was suffering from decay and was closed for safety reasons. It was given a Grade I listed status in 1981 but still, investors were more interested in Brighton Marina. It continued to deteriorate but plans were underway to save the pier. In 2003 the pierhead caught fire and firefighters were unable to get to it because of the unsafe access. A few months later in May 2003 the pier caught fire again and this time the pier smouldered for a few days until it was nothing but a shell. It is widely thought both fires were intentional arson. There have been many attempts to restore the pier over the years but it was officially declared beyond repair. Because of the listed status, the shell of the pier still stands and it has been a much loved part of the Brighton landscape since - especially in winter where the fluid and mesmerising dance of the starling murmurations can be seen at dusk above the pier. But with every storm a little more of the pier disappears into the sea so it won’t be around forever.
Parking & Getting ABout.
Every Brighton dwellers most passionate subject; parking. Notorious for being difficult to park, it is best if you can to travel in by train so you can forget about parking for your stay. If that doesn't logistically make sense for you then if you are staying in an AirBNB or hotel check if you can buy visitor permits from your host.
Otherwise, your best bet for parking while you’re in the city is to find a car park outside of the city centre and leave your car there for the duration, everything in Brighton is fairly reachable by foot or bus so until you have mobility considerations my recommendation is go car free for your stay.
There are car parks at London Road and Tisbury Road which all offer round the clock parking and cheaper than the main city centre car parks. Or you can use Just Park. As a resident, I urge you to use the former options instead of parking in residential areas outside of the city - we struggle for spaces in the city and the free areas can get clogged up, depriving someone that needs to park near their home a space and forcing more permitted areas to come into force.
Everything in the city is pretty walkable but you will rack up some steps so wear comfy footwear! The buses are very regular and most run through the night. You can find more information on buses here.
Good to know.
To understand Brighton’s layout perhaps the most important thing to point out is that there are two main shopping and recreational places either side of North St (one of the main streets running through Brighton) with the North Laine to the north and The Lanes to the south. Note the lack of plural for The North Laine and the lack of ‘south’ for The Lanes. Think of The North Laine as a general area and The Lanes as a collection of well.. lanes. As a rule avoid West St, especially in the evenings.
Brighton is VERY dog friendly with most shops and cafes accepting your four pawed pal. But.. I see far too many people dragging their dog around the city in hot weather, please don’t be that person, the pavements gets very hot and the city gets insanely busy - it’s really stressful for your dog so if you need to bring yours plan to come in the cooler months instead.
It can get incredibly windy in Brighton, especially on the streets heading down towards the sea, just be aware of it, especially if packing dresses!
Towards the end of the year you can catching the murmurations - in fact don’t miss it as it’s magical. Grab a hot chocolate from Knoops and hit the beach near the pier. Don’t forget to wrap up warm.
If you like craft beer or coffee you’ll be in your element in the city, there are pretty much pubs on every corner and most have an array of good booze. The city is also very vegan friendly so if you’re vegan you’ll have no worries with a lot of dedicated vegan cafes but also lots of options in those that aren’t.
Us Brighton residents are so proud of the city and we love to show it off but also really appreciate it when visitors keep in mind that those living here have day to days and deadlines just like you do at home. So be mindful of people trying to get by in the narrow lanes and keep out of the cycle lanes. There are clear cycle lanes along the seafront so just make sure you are not in them and everyone can get on with their day safely.
If it’s important to you to keep on top of your exercise the main leisure centres leave a lot to be desired - it’s better to seek out independent studios and gyms, I’ll detail some in this post.
Districts.
As most cities, Brighton areas are now being labelled Quarters. However, for folks that have lived in the city for a long time we know the city by a number of districts. I’m focusing on Brighton rather than Hove in this post but some of the districts will cross over into Hove. A lot of this post will focus on central Brighton but there will be the odd place from outside of central Brighton. So it feels right to head up this post with some areas to check out as they are places to hang out in their own right. Seven Dials is an example of this - while I haven’t featured any of the shops or cafes here I highly recommend spending at least half a day in this lovely area of Brighton with it's gorgeous shops and bakeries. Sabina at Hi Cacti is working on a guest post about Seven Dials as no-one knows the area better than her so check the Brighton section of this blog.
There is Hanover which is a steep area of Brighton made up of streets of colourful houses. There is a dense amount of local pubs in Hanover and they are brilliant. At the top of Hanover you’ll find the lovely Queen’s Park - a great place to hang out in summer with a pond, a resident heron (and a couple of resident cats) and ping pong tables.
Brunswick is an area at the start of Hove - there’s some gorgeous architecture to be seen and you’ll see why influencers often shoot here. At the top of Brunswick on Western Road turning into Church Road you’ll find some lovely cafes and shops including City Books - one of my fave indy bookshops. Don’t miss YouJuice, tucked away on a cute little street you can get fresh juices and nutrient dense snacks from what was a garage. Make sure you’re aware of the opening hours as they are short. Around the same area is the gorgeous St Ann’s Wells Gardens - a perfect spot to enjoy a take out lunch.
Preston Park is Brighton’s biggest central park and the whole Preston area stretching up to Fiveways is really leafy and open. Don’t miss the walled garden tucked in the front corner by the main road out of Brighton. It’s a little haven and spot the dog cemetery while you’re there. Fiveways itself is worth a visit if you want to check out Preloved that I talk about below otherwise there’s not much there that you won’t get in central Brighton (coffee shops and bakeries). Preston Circus is near Preston Park and is home to Cafe Rust and some lovely eateries.
Kemptown is often mistaken for just St James’s Street but actually proper Kemptown is a lot further up than that past Upper Rock Gardens. St James’s Street is Brighton’s famous gay district with most of the dedicated gay pubs, bars, drag shows and shops here. The recently opened Soho House is on the seafront by St James’s St. In Kemptown itself you’ll find antique shops and flea markets as well as lovely cafes, pubs and bakeries. It’s worth a walk up and you can walk back along the seafront to find yourself central again. You’ll also find some great cafes along St James’s St. I love Purezza (vegan pizzas) and their neighbours Twin Pines on St James St.
Restaurants.
It’s going to be impossible for me to list all of the restaurants I love here. There are so many places in Brighton to grab a quick, tasty bite to eat and also some amazing restaurants where you can eat incredible food crafted from excellent ingredients in bustling atmospheres.
The place that is celebrated by locals and visitors alike is Bincho Yakitori on the food hub of Preston Street. You absolutely must book in advance if you want to head here - it is VERY popular for good reason with their menu mainly made of grilled skewers of meat and fish but also has plenty of plant based options like miso aubergine and grilled corn. If wood fired food is your thing also check out Burnt Orange where you can grab some good grub in a peaceful part of The Lanes choosing a beautiful courtyard seat or cosy inside table. Also in the area is the Curry Leaf Cafe - brilliant Indian Street Food that is so incredibly tasty and makes for a great date night.
If you are feeling the seaside fish vibes, you can’t go wrong by heading to the intimate Riddle & Finns. Fresh fish dishes with excellent attention to detail. It’s a total vibe. Another option is Michael Bremner’s Murmur which is nestled under the arches by the i360 (the big donut that elevates up into the sky on a pole!).
If you want something a bit faster and dirtier, don’t miss Baby Bao at The Pond. It’s the perfect setting for these delicious Bao buns and a side of EPIC fries and the Pond is a lovely pub with a succinct selection of local beers.
Shelter Hall is a bustling collection of pop ups on the seafront - find a table in the large, open hall and order from any of restaurants set around the edge. The joy of this is a group of pals can all order something different. If you’re looking for fun and atmosphere this is your place but if you want a quiet, intimate meal choose somewhere else.
Established in The Lanes for as long as I can remember Plateau is a classy spot with it’s French owners influence shining through. The focus here is food done with precision and the largest selection of natural wines you’ll find in Brighton. The team are knowledgeable and passionate and I highly recommend an evening here.
The Flint House is the place to head to for the special evening. My recommendation is get a table up by the bar and watch your food being cooked. I had a faultless meal here for my birthday and if you’re having a celebration there is worse places you can go.
Lucky Khoa síts at the bottom of St James’s Street and in the day is an airy cafe under the name of Red Roaster and by night a lively Thai BBQ. It’s so good and very worthy your tastebuds.
The Set the was once based at The Artists Residence is now at the gorgeous Cafe Rust at Preston Circus. This ultra cool space teamed with the incredible food from a collection of brilliant Brighton chefs makes for a winner.
I absolutely can’t forget Fatto A Mano - when this restaurant first opened it’s first doors on London Road it was an instant hit with their authentic wood fired sourdough pizzas. It continues to hold it’s standard, vibe and popularity over all three sites: London Road, the North Laine and Hove.
I will be writing a vegan Brighton post very soon so check in on my Brighton section if that’s your vibe.
Cafes and Coffee Houses.
Brighton has an abundance of great cafes and coffee houses so it was hard to know where to start with this so as with any good day, I’m going to start with breakfast. If you’re looking for the best eggs in town you need to head to Mange Tout on Trafalgar St where you can people watch while enjoying the best hollandaise I’ve ever had. A little further out of town but perfect if you’re staying in Hanover or Kemptown is Starfish & Coffee. You’ll really be breakfasting among the locals in this popular cafe with a full English (vegan options available), hash or plate full of pancakes. You can even treat yourself to a breakfast cocktail. Moksha is a large cafe a little more central and offers a similar breakfast menu. If you’re after a pastry and coffee you’ll find a Flour Pot in most areas of the city - the Flour Pot is our local independent bakery and my favourite in the one in the North Laine because you can sit outside and watch the sunshine folk of Brighton go about their day.
Brightonians take their coffee very seriously. You will see creatives, freelancers and all manner of folk catch a quick coffee with a pal or acquaintance all over town. So it stands to reason we have a big number of coffee stops across the city. I’m scratching the surface but if you want an excellent coffee made with love and precision you can’t go wrong with the following. First is Bond St Coffee - a freelancer hub with benches outside where you can soak up some Brighton sunshine. A few roads over on Trafalgar Street is the small but mighty Coffee at 33 - experts that roast their own beans that are sold across the city but if one of you doesn't want coffee they also have an excellent fresh tea offering. Pelicano is located at the Level (central green space) and great for hanging out on the grass in the sun but they also have one on Sydney Street too which is a really lovely spot for a rainy day, especially if you take a table upstairs. If you are in the west side of the city tucked away is the brilliant Stoney Point coffee - it feels like you’ve been let into a little secret coming here.
Throughout the city there’s a pleasing offering of day time cafes. One that does it exceptionally well is Lost in the Lanes. Tucked away in a thoroughfare in The Lanes it’s a welcoming glass fronted space and they do food really well here. This is a place for curling up with a book by yourself or taking a window seat and gazing out at nothing in particular. Breakfast could look like Toasted Banana Bread with Miso butter and Sussex honey and lunch an indulgent beetroot cured trout dish. Bed in and get comfy.
If you’re looking for a satisfying lunch with a twist two excellent options are Oseta and Lavash. Both offer grounded decor and tasty food. Wolfox offers health based plates that are incredibly pretty as well as tasty. You can also venture into Kemptown and find Cafe Rust where you’ll fall in love with the antiques and food alike.
If bread and sugar are your thing, head to Sugardough in the Lanes. Even better try and get to the flagship store in Hove - magic happens within these walls where chef Kane takes his Melbourne background and brings pastries, cakes, pies and bread to the city with passion and care. If you visit on a morning expect to find a queue outside on the street. Also a few doors up is Cookbookbake - a specialist food book shop. Expect to lose a few hours and a few quid.
Cocktails and Bars.
Having been sober for three years I am probably not the person with the finger on the pulse with the watering holes. That said, I did get a fair bit of hedonistic bar hopping in when I wasn't sober so know a fair bit about the places that have been around for a while. Brighton is full of places to grab a drink and whether you’re a micro brewery fan or particular about your wines there is a place for you in the city.
The lovely Ten Green Bottles is a great place to start for a wine lover. The layout is breezy and sociable and walls full of wine to take out surround you. It’s great for a nightcap after a meal. I’ve spent many an hour there chatting away and sharing a cheeseboard with a paired wine by one of the team. Even writing about it is making me miss cheese and wine. As mentioned earlier Plateau is the place to go if you are interested in learning more about natural wines - another excellent nightcap choice.
As far as cocktails go head to Bar Valentino above the theatre for a classier experience - the door can be found to the right hand side and you can call the bell to be let in. Grab a seat on the balcony to watch the hustle of bustle pass below while sipping an expertly crafted cocktail with fine liquors and spirits. Hidden away towards the bottom of St Jame’s Street is The Plotting Parlour that has the dusky vibes of a speakeasy bar and cocktails that are unforgettable. And if you want a whole injection of atmosphere you’ll be delighted to find yourself in the busy Black Dove with an impressive bar and menu to match.
If you stay away from West Street good nightlife is easy to stumble upon. If you’re looking for a wild night hang out in The Bee’s Mouth and see what happens. I will spare you of my own personal stories from that place! The Mesmerist is a good bet for dancing and there is often DJ’s playing excellent music at the weekends in the North Laine Brewhouse. Down on the seafront a Brighton staple is an old Fishermans pub The Fortune of War where again, good music is a given with plenty of outdoor seating.
Craft beer pubs are ten a plenty but highlights include Bison, The Pond and The Independent in Hanover. There are too many good pubs to list so stumble into one and see how you go but I will give a shout out to The Basketmakers for being a Brighton institution where some of the best creative ideas were borne (make sure you look in the tins on the wall), The Lion and Lobster for always sparking the messiest of nights and The Geese for being one of Brightons best haunts with the best sausage and mash.
Shopping.
If shopping is your thing then you’ll be in your element in Brighton - packed with aesthetically pleasing and well loved Indies there is something for everyone. For carefully curated interiors to design led clothes boutiques, avoid Churchill Square and head to the North Laine first starting at Trafalgar Street, making your way along the streets toward the The Lanes.
On Trafalgar Street you’ll find an array of lovely boutiques right off the hat from Brighton station. I absolutely love looking in Fold and pretending that someday I’ll be the kind of person who can buy something off the rack rather than saving for months for it! So instead I head into To Be Worn Again across the road where I usually come out with at least a t-shirt that I cut up when I get home. Then, because it’s rude not while on Sydney Street, I cross the road again to Papersmith’s for some stationery porn. Carry along Sydney St for some excellent preloved shops including Wolf & Gypsy.
At the end of Sydney Street and along Gloucester Rd a little you’ll find Tidy St Store which stock some lovely investment pieces. All around this area you will find shops you want to look in and then it’s time to hit Kensington Gardens where you can the famous Snoopers Paradise - a humongous flea market which is delightful to snoop around. Also along the cobbled street are market traders and indie shops from interiors to gifts. There’s also Brighton’s much loved Resident Music for the vinyl junkies (guilty as charged).
Moving on don’t miss Utility on North Road - functional, made to last items for home. When you’re done in there start moving along Gardner Street and Bond Street. From left to right you’ll find more Indies all worth a look but my number one pick is NOLA - a gorgeous clothing boutique selling clothes made to last a lifetime. Also don’t miss Dowse with their colourful homewares and prints, Hold for gifts and homewares and Badger for designer clothing.
Crossing over North Street, dip behind Habitat into the the Lanes. Here you’ll find jewellery shops and towards East Street the more designer side of the High St but you’ll also find some gorgeous local Indies along Kennington Lane and on Prince Albert Street. One of the first shops you come across which is just wonderful is & Halt. Don’t miss Workshop - a shop highly coveted by locals for their curation of unique simple living goods crafted with skill. Just a stones throw away is Our Daily Edit - another clothes shop selling design led clothes with a focus on sustainability and gender neutral clothing.
There are still shops to be found down on the seafront. Under the arches by the i360 there is Rebound - a celebrated preloved store stocking designer labels. There’s also Unlimited who sell carefully selected artworks from local artists.
Outside of the indie shopping trial there is The Feminist Bookshop nestled up on Upper North St and if you have any reason to go to that part of the city, do check out Preloved at Fiveways - another gorgeous preloved shop that always has something in you want.
Culture & Social
Depending on what time of year you come to Brighton, there is always something different on. Throughout May there are numerous events and artists open houses to see and some open houses open up for winter too.
If arts and culture is your thing, you’ll not be bored in Brighton. We have various galleries including the Phoenix, the Brighton Museum and Art Gallery and Fabrica. There’s also a number of small and independent galleries around Trafalgar Street and Gloucester Place. There’s also multiple theatre and event venues - check out the What’s On guide on Visit Brighton. Some favourite venues of mine are the Old Market, The Attenborough Centre (a little more out of town so you will need public transport) and Brighton Dome.
The Duke of Yorks is one of the oldest cinemas in the world and it’s a lovely place to catch a film with traditional and locally sourced cinema snacks. Highly recommended.
For comedy check out both Komedia and The Forge. For dancing check out The Green Door Store or the legendary Concorde II.
If you are looking for a dedicated LGBTQ+ place to hang out there’s The Queery off St James’s St and there are also a number of clubs around St James’s St which is where all the main gay clubs are. Last year we saw the devastating closure of the Marlborough which was THE place to just hang out and have a drink/play some pool but you will find a number of pubs and bars in this area that are mostly gay run. If you fancy something a bit quieter then The Setting Sun is a lovely locals pub in Hanover where you can catch a beautiful sunset over the city. You can catch burlesque and drag at Ironworks.
Co- working
It’s not so easy in Brighton to find laptop friendly cafes. Even those that are laptop friendly have shaky wifi. So if you’re in town for a while and need to work it’s a good idea to consider some of the excellent co working spaces in the city. Most of these spaces offer a day pass so book in and get shit done….
In the the Lanes is the Projects - a co working space with a focus on well-being. They have two sites, one in an old town house and the other is a big space on Nile Street. On the ground floor of Nile St is a lovely wellbeing cafe and you get super fast wifi too.
Platf9rm also have two sites - one in central Brighton near the station and another on the main drag in Hove. They are colourful spaces with friendly people and at the Tower Point site you’ll get amazing views over the city.
Nearer the station still are WRAP who offer on site childcare. If you’re looking for a cafe to just catch up on some emails my favourites are Flint Owl, Bond St Coffee and Pelicano.
Exercise and Wellbeing.
With the rise of the digital nomad lifestyle you maybe visiting the city with an appetite for living like a local while here. It’s easy to allow well-being to slide when travelling but Brighton is well known for its excellent wellbeing offerings and alternative lifestyles. With a wealth of options on offer you might not know where to start so I’m sharing my personal favourites. Everyone in the city will have different ideas of what the best classes are so I dare these knowing these aren’t the be all and end all of Brighton wellbeing but they are certainly tried and tested.
If you’re looking for a dopamine hit you can’t go wrong with Roguecycle next to Brighton station. This is a welcoming spin studio with amazing vibes and music. You’ll leave sweating and feeling like you’ve just been clubbing. If sweating is your thing, head to The Box - a guaranteed full workout!
When it’s time to slow things down, About Balance offers a range of classes and treatments including floatation tanks. The Brighton Buddhist Centre is a much loved central hub for meditation, yoga, tai chi and other offerings. Humankind is in Kemptown and offers yoga classes making it clear what level they are for which I love so I know what to go for on days I want to take it easy or days I want to challenge myself. They also offer gong baths and candlelight yoga.
Newly opened is the state or the art outdoor pool, Sea Lanes. There’s also a bar and volleyball court so if you want an evening of active fun followed by a rooftop pint, this is your destination.
The city is abundant with amazing practitioners running a whole host of workshops. Check out Flowstate’s timetable for embodied yoga, breathwork and sound healing. Also, my friend Betty is running amazing women’s circles and healing workshops, get involved.
If you’re after a haircut in town I would recommend Mooch to the moon and back, I’ve never had anything but an amazing ‘do from anyone there. If natural is your thing Cuttlefish are a completely natural salon.
More Resources.
Secret Brighton is a great little guide for newcomers and residents alike - full of places I didn't know existed until I got a copy. For the food scenes, The Graphic Foodie is great resource and Restaurants Brighton might be a good place for a bit of food research too. Last but not least, Brighton on the Inside is brilliant.
What have I missed? Add your comments below with your favourite Brighton haunts to help readers of this post find more great places in Brighton.
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