8 Must Do Things on the Suffolk Coast AONB.
My love affair with the golden, peaceful Suffolk continues and I really got to know it this second time, especially near Orford staying at The Curious Oyster. Often when on commission you get to the nitty gritty of a place because you’re given a list of the places to document and while there you get to explore the ins and outs of these places.
As a county, Suffolk is very generous with what it gives: there’s beautiful, quiet walks and unspoiled places to explore and the towns are pretty, creative and stay true to their values. Suffolk is a very conscious county and careful about their consumption so the shops are thoughtful and sell wares that are well made and will last for a long time. That really speaks to me so I really enjoy picking around Suffolk towns.
As ever these suggestions are mostly dog friendly (apart from the shops of course where Monty snoozes in the van) but it’s worth checking local beaches for dog restrictions.
Get fish’n’chips on Southwold Harbour.
I’m reliably told that the best fish’n’chips can be found in Aldeburgh but I reckon the chips I had from The Sole Bay Fish Company on Southwold harbour would come a close second, if not a match. Perfect for a late lunch after a day exploring lovely Southwold with its pretty houses and lovely shops. Then take the bridge over to Walberswick and enjoy the soft dunes and sandy beach.
Take a walk in Dunwich Forest.
Take some sandwiches and park up in St Fredericks Mount car park where you’ll find yourself parked among tall trees and you can take a post sandwich walk down the sandy track into the dense forest. You can do a number of loops, a variety of lengths. I’m not going to tell you where to walk because part of the fun of adventuring is following your own nose and getting a bit lost, just make sure you saved the car park on your maps before setting off. Mushroom foragers will be happy here.
Take a tranquil walk round Blythburgh Estuary.
Blythburgh is well worth an hour of your time, walk among the golden reeds, wildlife spotting as you go, cross through the village and check out the church before heading back to your starting point feeling like your shoulders have dropped a little. There’s a small public car park opposite the White Hart pub, blink and you’ll miss it so go slow!
Explore Thorpeness.
This oddly perfect place was originally built to be a private fantasy holiday village and consists of immaculate mock Tudor houses and a massive 60,000 acre man made lake called The Meare. The Meare has many little islands, all named by J.M. Barrie being as the lake was inspired by Peter Pan. Thorpeness is also home to the famous ‘House in the Clouds’ which was once a water tower. Walk along the right of The Meare, up an alley to the House in the Clouds (while rubbernecking at all the whimsical holiday homes) and then over the small heath to Mabel & Co - a wonderful letterpress studio. Then head down to the beach via the Country Club to do a loop back to the car park where you can check out the Emporium or head to the café.
Walk from Snape Maltings to Iken Church.
This 4 mile walk is flat and delightful. Taking the path from the Snape Maltings car park you soon pick up a boardwalk and are transported into a land populated by herons, egrets, curlews and oyster catchers minding their own business on the mudflats. Pass numerous abandoned boats along the Iken cliffs until you join the lane uptown the spooky Iken church where you’ll find some gorgeous produce being sold by an honesty box. Bet you can’t resist the fudge. Snape Maltings is well worth a look on your return - it’s a bustling arts venue as well as home to a large interiors and food shop showcasing local produce.
Spend a day in Orford.
I don’t say day lightly, you will need a whole one to take in everything Orford has to offer, preferably following this timeline: morning pastries and coffee at Pump St Bakery before walking through the village taking in the serious curb appeal. Then head towards the castle and walk a little way down Gedgrave road taking a footpath to your right past the water treatment. You’ll soon find yourself at the river where you can take a left or right at the gate (going right will give you a slightly longer by 20 minutes but worth it walk) but when you get to the river wall turn left which will take you to the quay. Head to Pinney’s - the shop for the famous smokehouse that is at Butley Creek - that sells their own smoked fish, delicious pate and other produce but also some gorgeously curated homewares.
Head up to The Butley Orford Oysterage and settle down in the down to earth restaurant where they specialise in one thing - good, honest seafood done incredibly well. The oysters are fresh and delicious and I’m told the Moules Mariniere was exceptional (I’ll have to take her word for it, I don’t eat mussels).
Before you wrap up you day in Orford, pop in next door to choose some of the incredible Pump St chocolate. The sourdough and sea salt though… just saying.
Reflect at the Shingle Street Shell Line.
Stretches of shingle lined with coastguard cottages lay at the end of a narrow lane. Here you will find a single line of white shells that circles a coastal plant and then carries on it’s journey across the shingle where it trails off somewhere near where the tide stops. The Shingle Street Shell Line has a wonderful story - two friends who grew up in the Netherlands together were diagnosed with cancer within months of each other and meeting on this beach during their treatment they sat and chatted and while did so arranged shells round a plant. Continuing to meet while they both underwent treatment they added to line. Both women are now cancer free and continue to return to the beach to repair the line every six months, sometimes taking a week to repair it. It’s a symbol of friendship and strength and a lovely thing to walk alongside.
Go shopping in Woodbridge.
I’m so glad I made the effort to visit this beautiful town. Thoughtfully curated shops are ten a penny and I was there for it. Take a walk up Church Street to the Town Square and back down the other side on New St. Highlights include Scandi inspired Vanil (don’t miss the hidden back bit where you can find lots of conscious cleaning and utilitarian goods as well as gorgeous skincare), Uniform Research that showcases some excellent conscious clothing brands, New Street market that sells clothes and homewares as well as a lovely cafe and The Good Dogg where you can buy your pooch some gorgeous, contemporary conscious pet ware.
If you still have any energy after shopping head down to the station, cross the bridge to the boat yard and take a walk along the river.
So there you have it, my Suffolk recommendations. As ever, if you explore using this post please tag me in, I love to see you out and about checking out the places I write about.